# UNDERCOVER

> UNDERCOVER is a streetwear and contemporary label based in Tokyo, Japan, started in 1990. Behind the label: Jun Takahashi. Known for punk, street culture and art, carried from Tokyo’s underground to Paris.

- Canonical: https://thecastindex.com/designers/undercover
- Country guide: https://thecastindex.com/houses/japanese-designers
- Facts checked: 2026-10-22
- Author: Kaiser Khan (Founder & Editor)

## Quick facts

- Behind the label: Jun Takahashi
- Based: Tokyo, Japan
- Since: 1990
- Focus: Streetwear and contemporary
- Makes: Womenswear and menswear
- Trained: Bunka Fashion College
- Official site: https://undercoverism.com
- Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/undercover_lab/

## Who is behind UNDERCOVER?

Jun Takahashi started UNDERCOVER while a student at Bunka Fashion College; the Fédération dates the label to 1990, and the Museum at FIT records his first collection in Tokyo in 1994. Encouraged by Rei Kawakubo, he first showed in Paris in 2002, with the collection “Scab” for Spring/Summer 2003. The Kyoto Costume Institute holds looks from Autumn/Winter 2001 and Spring/Summer 2007. On the official Paris calendars from FW24 to SS27, UNDERCOVER moved between runway shows and presentations: its last runway in that span was womenswear FW25, on 4 March 2025, and it has presented, by invitation, since.

## Timeline

- 1990: UNDERCOVER is launched, according to the Fédération. (source: https://www.fhcm.paris/en/house/undercover)
- 1994: Jun Takahashi shows his first collection in Tokyo. (source: https://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/people/6357/jun-takahashi)
- 2002: Makes his Paris debut with the collection “Scab”. (source: https://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/people/6357/jun-takahashi)
- 4 March 2025: Shows FW25 womenswear as a runway show on the official Paris calendar. (source: https://www.fhcm.paris/en/upcoming-seasons-and-previous-editions)
- 2 October 2026: Presents SS27 on the official Paris womenswear calendar. (source: https://www.fhcm.paris/en/upcoming-seasons-and-previous-editions)

## Sources

- [FHCM — Undercover house page](https://www.fhcm.paris/en/house/undercover) — checked 2026-10-22
- [The Museum at FIT — Jun Takahashi](https://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/people/6357/jun-takahashi) — checked 2026-10-22
- [Kyoto Costume Institute — Undercover ensemble, Autumn/Winter 2001](https://www.kci.or.jp/en/archives/digital_archives/2000s/KCI_349) — checked 2026-10-22
- [Kyoto Costume Institute — Undercover dress, Spring/Summer 2007](https://www.kci.or.jp/en/archives/digital_archives/2000s/KCI_301) — checked 2026-10-22
- [FHCM — official calendars, FW24 to SS27](https://www.fhcm.paris/en/upcoming-seasons-and-previous-editions) — checked 2026-10-22