Modelling at fashion week: the complete guide

How fashion week casting works

Casting for the shows follows a recognisable path. An agency submits its models to a show’s casting director; the casting team requests (or “options”) the faces they like; models attend a casting or “go-see” and walk for the team; those chosen are fitted in the actual looks; and finally bookings are confirmed — often at the last minute. Very little is decided far in advance.

The takeaway: a model’s job is to be represented, prepared, and reliable. The agency and casting director drive the process.

What you need

You do not need expensive professional photos to start — agencies prefer simple, un-retouched “digitals” (front, side, and full-length in plain clothing against a blank wall) plus your height and basic measurements. Once signed, an agency builds your portfolio, comp card (a card with your best images and stats), and, for runway, a short walking clip.

A tidy, real social presence can help, but it is not a substitute for representation and a strong walk.

Requirements — and how they’re changing

Requirements vary widely by market and category, and the industry is far more open on height, size, age, and background than the old clichés. What consistently matters is a distinctive look, a strong natural walk, professionalism, and reliability. Emerging markets — Lagos, Jakarta, São Paulo, Mumbai and more — are now a genuine route in, which is exactly what our Rising board tracks.

The legitimate routes in

There are three honest routes: signing with a reputable agency (the main one), attending an agency’s official open call, and legitimate model-development programmes. Research the agencies that represent models you admire — The Cast Index lists agencies alongside their rosters — and submit your digitals through their official channels.

Money, and being under 18

Understand how you’ll be paid before you sign — agencies work on commission, and models are usually self-employed, so budgeting and tax matter. See our guide to managing money as a new model.

If you’re under 18, the rules are stricter for your protection, and you should only work through a reputable agency with a parent or guardian involved. Note: The Cast Index does not accept profile submissions or nominations from anyone under 18 — see the under-18 guide.

Avoiding the scams

The single most important rule in the industry: you never pay to walk a show, and a reputable agency never charges you to be signed. Agencies make money by taking a commission when you work. Treat any “agency,” “scout,” or “producer” that demands upfront fees, mandatory expensive shoots, registration charges, or payment to appear as a red flag. Never send money or sensitive financial details to an unverified contact.

Looking after yourself

A long career depends on your health as much as your look. Fashion is demanding on the body and mind — our Wellbeing desk covers mental health, casting rejection, body image, eating and nutrition, skin, and life on the road, with links to support wherever you are.