Designers / Japan · Streetwear and contemporary
UNDERCOVER
Jun Takahashi
UNDERCOVER is a streetwear and contemporary label based in Tokyo, started in 1990. Behind the label: Jun Takahashi. It is known for punk, street culture and art, carried from Tokyo’s underground to Paris. Latest milestone on record (2 October 2026): Presents SS27 on the official Paris womenswear calendar.
Quick facts
UNDERCOVER at a glance
- Behind the label
- Jun Takahashi
- Based
- Tokyo, Japan
- Since
- 1990
- Focus
- Streetwear and contemporary
- Makes
- Womenswear and menswear
- Trained
- Bunka Fashion College
- Official site
- undercoverism.com ↗
- @undercover_lab ↗
The person and the label
Who is behind UNDERCOVER?
Jun Takahashi started UNDERCOVER while a student at Bunka Fashion College; the Fédération dates the label to 1990, and the Museum at FIT records his first collection in Tokyo in 1994. Encouraged by Rei Kawakubo, he first showed in Paris in 2002, with the collection “Scab” for Spring/Summer 2003. The Kyoto Costume Institute holds looks from Autumn/Winter 2001 and Spring/Summer 2007. On the official Paris calendars from FW24 to SS27, UNDERCOVER moved between runway shows and presentations: its last runway in that span was womenswear FW25, on 4 March 2025, and it has presented, by invitation, since.
Timeline
UNDERCOVER, dated
- 1990UNDERCOVER is launched, according to the Fédération. Source ↗
- 1994Jun Takahashi shows his first collection in Tokyo. Source ↗
- 2002Makes his Paris debut with the collection “Scab”. Source ↗
- 4 March 2025Shows FW25 womenswear as a runway show on the official Paris calendar. Source ↗
- 2 October 2026Presents SS27 on the official Paris womenswear calendar. Source ↗
More from Japan
Other Japan labels to know
- COMME des GARÇONS Ready-to-wear · since 1969
- Yohji Yamamoto Ready-to-wear · since 1972
- ISSEY MIYAKE Ready-to-wear · since 1970
- JUNYA WATANABE Ready-to-wear · since 1992
- sacai Ready-to-wear · since 1999
- ANREALAGE Ready-to-wear · since 2003
- Mame Kurogouchi Ready-to-wear · since 2010
- AURALEE Menswear · since 2015
- doublet Streetwear and contemporary · since 2012
- SOSHIOTSUKI Menswear · since 2015
- pillings Textile heritage · since 2020
Read the full Japan guide, with the method behind it and where to see the work in person.
Sources
Sources
Represent UNDERCOVER and spotted an error? Send a correction with a link to the record.
Quick answers
UNDERCOVER, answered
Who is behind UNDERCOVER?
- Jun Takahashi. UNDERCOVER is a streetwear and contemporary label based in Tokyo.
When was UNDERCOVER founded?
- 1990, according to the sources listed on this page.
What does UNDERCOVER make?
- Womenswear and menswear. It is known for punk, street culture and art, carried from Tokyo’s underground to Paris.
Where did the designer of UNDERCOVER train?
- Bunka Fashion College.