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The Cast Index

Ingredient library / Antioxidant

Vitamin C.

Also on labels as: L-ascorbic acid · Ascorbic acid · Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate · 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid · Ascorbyl glucoside

Quick answer

What is vitamin c?

Vitamin C is an antioxidant used in serums to help skin look brighter and more even, and to support protection against environmental damage alongside sunscreen. Pure L-ascorbic acid is the most studied form but the least stable; derivatives are gentler and more stable, though evidence for them is more limited.

What it does

  • Antioxidant support that complements, but never replaces, sunscreen
  • Helps the look of dullness and uneven tone
  • Plays a role in collagen production in skin

Who it suits

Most skin types looking for brightness. Sensitive skin may prefer a derivative or a lower-strength formula.

How to use it

  1. Usually applied in the morning after cleansing, before moisturiser and sunscreen
  2. Store as directed — many formulas degrade with air, light and heat
  3. Discard if a pure L-ascorbic acid serum turns dark orange or brown

Take care

  • High strengths of L-ascorbic acid can tingle or sting
  • Patch test if you have sensitive skin

What it pairs with

Works well with vitamin E and ferulic acid, and before sunscreen. Keep strong exfoliating acids and retinoids for the evening unless a product says otherwise.

General information, not medical advice. For a skin condition, pregnancy or persistent irritation, speak to a pharmacist, GP or dermatologist.

In the catalogue

Products listing vitamin c.

Named in each brand’s own listing

Read further

Sources.

  1. Pullar et al., “The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health”, Nutrients, 2017 ↗

Vitamin C, answered

Should vitamin C be used morning or night?

Most people use it in the morning, under sunscreen, for its antioxidant role. Follow the directions on your specific product.

What is the most effective form of vitamin C?

L-ascorbic acid has the most research behind it but is unstable and can irritate. Derivatives such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid are more stable and usually gentler.

Why did my vitamin C serum turn orange?

L-ascorbic acid oxidises when exposed to air, light and heat, which darkens the serum. A strongly darkened serum is past its best.